As Groucho Marx points to a viaduct on a map, Chico responds by asking, “Why a duck?”
If Chico had asked me why, I would have taken him here. To the Viaduc des Arts.
A few minutes walk from where Aleau is moored, the Viaduc is what is left of an elevated rail line that ran through the 12th arrondisement.
The tracks have been replaced by a lovely, aboveground walkway.
It feels far removed from the hustle and bustle on the streets below.
What’s under the the viaduc can be just as rewarding as a walk on top. Each arch is home to an atelier – with workshops of artisans of every description extending the length of the viaduc.
One business makes architectural models – including one of the viaduc itself.
Architects can see their ideas turned into three-dimensional maquettes.
The neon sign outside, along with the music stands and cello cases in the window, only hint at what’s inside. It’s far more than a simple music store.
It’s here where string instruments are created.
Peering through the glass, we watch as a violin slowly comes to life.
Still want strings – but perhaps something larger? Under another arch, there is a selection of harps.
If admiring them from the outside is not enough, step inside and hear how one sounds. Along with a cello that may have been made just a few doors away.
Prefer brass to strings? You can watch horns being made, too.
There are craftsmen – and craftswomen – all along the viaduc.
At this atelier, you can eat what you’ve watched being made.
Looking for something sweeter than chocolate?
A few doors down, at La Confiture Parisienne, a worker is busy making jam.
Not hungry? Looking to watch something a bit more industrial being made?
A cabinetmaker specializing in mahogany has a shop in the viaduc.
Under another arch, even bigger pieces of machinery will be used to turn brass tubes into lamps.
One could spend hours peeking into the windows under each arch.
Which might bring on hunger pangs. No problem. There are restaurants along the viaduc. It’s Paris, after all.
