The pressure to push on to Paris is never-ending. And it sometimes gets a bit stressful. This morning, the Capitaine of the Briare port informed us that the VNF were going to be closing the two canals we still need to take – the Briare and the Canal du Loing. It seems that every time we start off, someone tells us we may not make it. We cast off at 8am telling ourselves we will cover as much ground (or water) as we can that day.
Construction of the Canal de Briare began in 1604. It has aged well. It is stunning. It winds its way through green countryside that shows no sign of the heatwave or drought that has been plaguing all of France. The water levels appear to be fine.
We are making good time. Every once in awhile we round a bend to find a lock with its green light on and its doors open. The VNF knows we’re coming and has prepared the lock for our arrival. We go straight in.
At Rogny, we stop for five minutes to grab a shot of the seven locks that were part of the original canal.
This stretch of the canal has since been “modernized.” In 1887, the seven locks above were taken out of service – replaced by the six we now pass through.
With restaurants named after what used to be.
While the locks have been “modernized,” the bridges have not. As with all the canals we have traveled, there’s only inches to spare as we pass under low bridge after low bridge. It’s why we can’t have the Bimini up and must endure the scorching sun. You can barely see Jeannie’s head as she steers Aleau under this one. Forgetting to duck would be fatal.
Racing to beat the closures we had been warned about, we covered 29 kilometres and passed through 19 locks. Both figures are one-day records for us. It took ten-and-a-half hours. Another record. All this in unbearable temperatures.
You never know if there’s going to be an empty spot at your next destination – kind of like looking for a parking spot for your car on a busy downtown street – except there are no other streets you can take. After that brutal journey form Briare, we were hoping there would be a spot for us.
We arrived in Châtillon-Coligny at 6:30 to find room at the quai. With electricity and water. We had paid €23 a night in Briare. I asked the Capitaine what the fee would be for two nights here. Nothing. It’s free.
Two nights. After that long day, there was no way we could do it again without a rest. Besides, we haven’t heard another word about closures. The Capitaine in Briare said the VNF was about to make an announcement. So far, nothing.
Time to take it easy and explore Châtillon-Coligny.
Unfortunately, it’s Sunday. The city is deserted. There will be no dining out for us this evening.
The only thing open in the entire city – a bar.
Even with barely a soul on the street, Châtillon-Coligny is a lovely place to explore.
