Now out of the Champagne region, we continue our voyage south – remembering to duck as we pass under bridges.
At least this bridge won’t be a problem.
The problem, or what had been a problem, is just minutes away.
That tunnel just ahead in the photo above is what forced many people – including us – to change plans for the summer. We and so many others wanted to cruise up the Marne. After we had all made our plans, the VNF said the Chalifert Tunnel is closed to all traffic until further notice. France’s high-speed train, the TGV, runs on that tall overpass just before the tunnel. Vibrations from it caused cracks in the tunnel.
We had no choice. Instead of leaving Paris and going upstream to the Marne, we headed downstream to the Oise. As you may have read, it allowed us to do something unplanned yet very enjoyable – especially that trip on the Somme which we otherwise would not have done. Every closed tunnel has a silver lining – or something like that.
Just as we were about to head downstream on the Oise and back to Paris, the VNF sent the notice below. While it says “Navigation Stoppage,” it adds “Except for Pleasure Craft.” That’s us. If it had arrived just a few days later, we would have been too far down the Oise to turn around. Sometimes, the gods are smiling. There was still a list of conditions to be met: We will have to radio the VNF as we approach the tunnel. A good idea since the tunnel is not wide enough to have boats going in opposite directions at the same time. We will have to give the name of the boat, the flag and registration number, the number of people on board as well as the name and phone number of the person at the helm. We must notify the VNF when we enter and when we leave the tunnel. All that for a tunnel that is less than 700-metres long. But at least we are now allowed to use it. We will make sure to obey the directive below and go no more than 4 km/h.
It is so short yet it ruined so many plans.
Our tunnel-light worked wonders. In addition, the tunnel is wide enough so I didn’t get any additional grey hairs as we passed through. Even so, having Jeannie at the bow is always reassuring.
We tied up in Lagny-sur-Marne – an enjoyable town that we have been to a number of times.
We spotted this restaurant as we approached Lagny-sur-Marne and decided it was worth the walk to check it out.
It checked out okay.
Jeannie started with a tuna tartare with guacamole and avocado.
Of course, it needed Champagne to accompany it.
Jeannie followed the tuna tartare with Filet de Bar – sea bass. As you can tell, I was a bit late getting the shot. Just imagine it untouched. Sorry.
I skipped having an entrée and went straight to the main course, the plat. I had scallops – which in France are called St. Jacques. It was served with truffle-flavoured fregola – a Sardinian pasta rolled into small balls and then toasted.
As I passed on an entrée, I could treat myself to dessert. At least that was my rationalization.
As we walked back to Aleau, we passed a pizza truck. With a real, wood-burning oven.
Maybe next time.
We love how so many towns have put flowers on their bridges.
Sometimes, we’re fooled. As we approached this one, we commented on how still the water was and how the flowers on the bridge were reflected onto the water.
Except that was not the case. What we were seeing was a reflection of the next bridge.
As we continued on, I was reminded of how much cargo these commercial barges can carry.
When loaded, the river is right up the gunwale – sometimes touching the bollards along the side.
When empty, it’s easy to see how much room there is.
For our last night on the Marne – before we turn upstream on the Seine – we were able to , once again, moor close to where we’d be having dinner.
Moules frites, tonight.
Of course, just to make life exciting – one more tunnel before reaching the Seine. Fortunately, this one is easy.
Just that one tunnel – but there are always more locks to pass through. This one was amusing – us, a commercial, and a tiny motorboat.
The directions first-timers who want to take the Marne are given is “Turn at the Chinese restaurant.” The first time that instruction was given to me, I wondered “How am I going to see a restaurant on shore from the middle of the river?” I needn’t have worried.
It’s right in Paris. Maybe one day, Jeannie and I will try it. We won’t be able to take Aleau as there’s nowhere to tie up.
We’re on the Seine. If we had turned right at the Chinese restaurant, we’d be in Arsenal in a few minutes. But we turned left and are heading upstream to the shipyard at Moret-sur-Loing. We pass under what looks like a model of the Brooklyn Bridge.
It’s a trip that will take a few days. The first night is spent just outside a lock. There’s a commercial tied up in front of us. (Have you figured out the CEVNI signs?)
The captain of Acheron asked us to moor as close to him as we could as other boats would be wanting to tie up behind us. We did as he asked. (There’s another CEVNI sign. Its meaning is not obvious.)
Sure enough. The next morning, when I looked back from our aft-deck, I could see we had company during the night.
We continued our voyage to Moret-sur-Loing.
We passed traditional grain elevators.
And less traditional grain elevators. This entire complex is a grain elevator.
For someone used to Saskatchewan elevators, it was fascinating to see.
There was the more common style of French architecture to see, as well.
And more bridges with flower boxes.
This bridge at a lock is a bit different. It is mirrored.
We can look up and see Aleau as we pass underneath.
We have left the Champagne region. But it is clear that the people who have homes along the Seine still have Champagne taste.
Not everyone chose to have a house. We saw many commercials that had been converted into homes.
It’s hard to believe this was once a commercial barge.
The next morning was cool – with mist rising off the Seine. We enjoyed the contrails left by early-morning flights.
But beauty is interrupted by business. Another lock. When going upstream, it is important to tie up as far back as possible. When the sluices at the other end are opened, the water flows in so fast that if we were moored closer, it could toss Aleau around with such force that our ropes might not hold. We watch as that tidal wave approaches us. Although tied, I use the engine to counteract the flow.
We’re almost there. Our penultimate night on the Seine. At least until our return journey to Paris.
We tie up in Samois-sur-Seine – a lovely town tucked on one side of an island in the Seine. It is quiet as all the commercial traffic passes by on the other side of the island.
They don’t take reservations – but there was room for us.
Once again, we didn’t have far to go to find a place to eat. Farther up this page, you can see how close to a restaurant we got during our last night on the Marne. In Samois-sur-Seine, we got even closer.
So close, we chose to have both lunch and dinner there.
Lunch. A salad for Jeannie.
Lasagna for me.
Dinner. Another salad for Jeannie.
A leg of pork for me.
We cast off from Samois-sur-Seine knowing it wouldn’t be long before we’d be back. We have to pass this way on our way back to Paris. We couldn’t help but take one last look at the Démé Samois restaurant (opposite the awnings) as we turned onto the main channel of the Seine.
It was a short cruise to Moret-sur-Loing where we already had a spot reserved.
It’s a lovely spot with both electricity and water. We couldn’t ‘t ask for anything nicer.
We’ve been here before – but still look forward to walking through town.
The “door” into Moret-sur-Loing was built at the end of the 12th century.
Adjoining it is a crêperie we have been to many times.
The entrance into Moret-sur-Loing is the only way in from this side of the Loing River. As it was built almost 800 years ago, car traffic was not anticipated. It can get very busy.
One of the best patisseries in France (in my humble opinion) is in Moret-sur-Loing. The first thing I did after we tied up was go there.
Only to be reminded that it’s still August.
Fortunately, as with many French towns, there is a second boulangerie – and they make sure they’re never closed at the same time.
No complaints from me about this one.
Back at Aleau, it was time for dinner on the aft-deck – Jeannie’s chicken pot-pie and Champagne. (It goes with anything.)
We are moored across from a lock on the Canal du Loing (on which we traveled the full length in the summer of 2022. (Chapter 168)
The commercials pass by slowly and silently.
We are here until Monday – when we are booked into the Rousseau shipyard in Moret-sur-Loing. It is a beautiful place to stay and wait.
