There are three definitions for Champagne. The most tasty is, of course, the wine.
Champagne is also a region in France. No drink can be called Champagne unless it comes from there. That is the law. It is enforced worldwide.
There is also the city – Châlons-en-Champagne. We made a detour just to go there. It lived up to its name. Jeannie and I went for a morning walk. Metres from where we were moored, we started to see Champagne tents.
They were empty. It was too early in the day – even for Champagne.
Wait, it seems it is never too early. We found this Airstream trailer was doing a thriving business.
This gentleman decided a full bottle just for himself was a good way to start the day.
We decided he was right. Although we limit our morning consumption to a glass each.
Only true connoisseurs were out this early. We knew that within a few hours, every seat would be taken.
Feeling refreshed, it was time to explore Châlons-en-Champagne.
We didn’t have to go very far. Even from our marina, we can see a magnificent church.
In town, another one.
Outside a different one, another reminder of the lives lost in the First World War.
We had been told by friends who had been here to take the boat tour of Châlons-en-Champagne.
They were right. It was a real treat. Half of it was under Châlons-en-Champagne. Almost immediately, we entered a tunnel.
It was not like any of the tunnels we’ve had to navigate this summer. This one had a dragon.
As we continued, different images were projected onto the tunnel ceiling.
And then there was light at the end… (Sorry)
That’s where we came from.
What a change to have someone else navigate. Jeannie and I could sit, enjoy the scenery, and relax.
We got to see Châlons-en-Champagne’s buildings from a different perspective.
Instead of a heron guiding us, the tour boat had a swan that swam alongside.
It left us as we approached another tunnel.
No need to do drugs along this stretch. It was already a psychedelic experience.
After that sensory overload, it was onto the streets of Châlons-en-Champagne. We could look down on where we had just been.
And walk the streets.
What could this store possibly sell?
Oh, right…Champagne. Buy six bottles and the seventh is free.
It’s not just Champagne that’s for sale in Châlons-en-Champagne. It’s France. Every city has a market – an outdoor one and an indoor one.
Since it’s France, and since it’s August, half the vendors are on holiday.
A friend had recommended a restaurant. Knowing it was mandatory in order to get a table, Jeannie went online and made reservations. It was a long walk in the heat to get to it. But from what we had been told, it would be worth it. This is what greeted us.
The restaurant had sent an e-mail confirming our reservations – except we hadn’t read the fine print. It was for August 26 – not the August 12th we had asked for. As we walked – with sad faces and hungry stomachs – back into town, we passed this “Hotel.” It served meals. But only if you were in a cell. We continued on.
Serendipity. This place looked inviting – and had empty tables.
It was so hot even the restaurant’s palm tree was turning brown.
To beat the heat, we both started with shrimp, tuna, and pink grapefruit.
Jeannie had sea bass with rice. Did the chef forget to put something in the middle or was he just trying to be artistic? If so, I don’t think it worked.
I had Magret de Canard in a cider sauce with a Tarte Tatin made not from apples but with a “poivrons confit.”
That’s it at the top of the photo above. I think I prefer the traditional apple Tarte Tatin served as a dessert.
Speaking of which, the strawberry trifle was perfect on such a hot day.
We walked back to Aleau and saw what we have seen in many mooring spots and along a number of canals – exercise equipment. After that large lunch, was the city of Châlons-en-Champagne trying to tell us something?
I was tempted but chose to visit our neighbours instead. He’s from Switzerland, she’s from France, and their barge is registered in the Netherlands. How European!
They were very friendly. Their cat, however, was grumpy. He had just fallen in the water and had to be rescued. He was still drying when we arrived.
We were lucky. The marina in Châlons-en-Champagne is often full. We had phoned ahead and the capitaine was kind enough to save the last available spot for us.
As lovely as our stay had been, it was time to move on.