It is our last day on the Canal du Nord. We have been on it before. It is not our favourite. Maybe because of that challenging tunnel. It is pretty to cruise along with green all around us. But there are very few places to stop and tie up for the night and even fewer towns to explore.
Péronne is one of the few exceptions. We can tie up – but not in the marina that is listed in guide books. We tried to get in last summer on our way back from the Netherlands. The channel into the marina was too shallow and we became grounded. We went through a lot of fuel trying to get unstuck.
Having learned our lesson, this summer we didn’t even try to get into the marina. We moored alongside what I guess was once a parking lot. There are no services. No water. No electricity. But it has bollards!
And it is secure. The lot is surrounded by a locked fence. A sign on it provides the number to call to get the combination so we can get out. At least Aleau will be safe while we’re in town.
Péronne is a tale of contrasts. At first, we were not impressed at all. Péronne looked like it was dying.
I
We saw a number of empty storefronts.
We were looking for somewhere to have dinner. We were ready to turn around and go back to Aleau.
But perseverance paid off. All of a sudden, Péronne became pretty and vibrant.
As in almost every town in France we have visited, the Mairie and the church were competing for attention.
Also, as with just about everywhere we have been in France, you won’t be able to have dinner if you haven’t made reservations.
This spot looked inviting.
We saw a number of empty tables. But all had a sign warning us to not even think about sitting there.
One lesson we have learned while being in France is restaurants don’t turn over tables. It can be frustrating for tourists from North America. They see empty tables, sometimes a lot of them, but are told the restaurant is full. Even though it’s 7pm and the table has been reserved for 8:30, that table is off limits. In case we were slow on the draw, a sign on the door reinforced the message. Not just full but “vraiment” full.
Not willing to give up, we continued our search – and came across “La Gourmande.” The name was promising.
We went in and apologetically said we hadn’t made reservations. “Pas de Souci.” No problem.
No problem alright. Jeannie and I were the only ones there – all evening.
We learned our lesson. We made reservations for the following night at the restaurant that had turned us away a few hours earlier. Le Bistrot d’Antoine was worth the wait. One of the best meals we have had in awhile.
I started with a simple salad.
For Jeannie, a more complex salad.
Then, for me, Magret de Canard – a delicious duck dish.
Followed by dessert. There are no tastier strawberries than those served in France.
Across the street from Le Bistrot d’Antoine is a museum dedicated to the First World War.
It was closed when we got there. But we will be back this way in about two weeks. We will stay an extra night in Péronne just to see it.
In French, “La Grande Guerre.” There was nothing grand about it. Especially not where we are. Tomorrow, we leave the Canal du Nord and begin our voyage along the River Somme. The “Battle of the Somme” took place on both sides of the river – France and Britain against Germany. More than three-million men fought – of whom more than one-million were wounded or killed. It is one of the deadliest battles in human history. I will write more about the museum and what we learned when we return to Péronne.
It is only fitting that the museum is located in Péronne. In early 1871, it was virtually destroyed when the Prussian army invaded. In 1916, what had been rebuilt was again destroyed.
We will come back to Péronne to learn more about the Somme and the suffering that occurred along it during the First World War.
Now, after a lovely meal, it is time to return to Aleau and prepare for tomorrow morning’s departure. On the way back, I grabbed a shot of Aleau that makes the parking lot we are moored against look a bit more scenic.
