This is a guide for friends in Canada who have accepted our invitation to come stay with us. It is aimed at those who have never been here before. If you have, much of this you will already know. But there may be a few things that are new. I encourage you to read it in its entirety. Let me know if I missed anything.
There is a reason why Paris is the most visited city in the world – and France is the most visited country in the world. They are both a joy to explore and to experience.
Visiting (and living here) is made easier when understanding and appreciating that some things are different than they are back home. One is not necessarily better than the other but knowing the differences will make life less stressful.
The French put a much bigger premium on politeness and manners than is the case in North America. This is where visitors often get into trouble and go back home saying the French are rude – when in fact it is likely the opposite is true.
THE GOLDEN RULE
The first rule, the most important rule, one that must never be ignored – no matter what the circumstances – is that every interaction begins with the word “Bonjour.” It is far more than a greeting such as the North American “Hello.” It is a sign of respect. It is a recognition that the other person is just as important as you are. I cannot emphasize this too much. Failure to say “Bonjour” could have you being totally ignored by the other person – thus the visitor going home saying the French are rude. And the French, more accurately, saying the visitor was rude.
Visitors may think the French carry this to extremes. But it is simply recognizing the other person. One day, I was in a doctor’s office with a half-dozen other people. As I sat, waiting to be seen, the outside door opened and another patient entered the waiting room. He stopped in front of each person and said, “Bonjour Monsieur, Bonjour Madame” until he had greeted each and every person (including me) and then he sat down.
Another time, Jeannie and I were walking along the pontoon to Aleau when we were moored in Auxonne. The fire department was there practicing water rescues. A dozen firefighters were listening to their boss give a lecture on what they would be doing. But as we passed by, the lecture stopped and each and every one of them turned and in succession said “Bonjour Madame” and “Bonjour Monsieur.” And we said “Bonjour Monsieur” to each one as we continued our walk to Aleau. We later remarked to each other it is one of the reasons we love being here.
This rule applies to absolutely everyone you come in contact with. Two children got on a bus in Paris, swiped their pass on the card reader, and then proceeded to their seats – without saying Bonjour to the bus driver. In a voice that could be heard by most of the passengers, he said (in French) “What poorly brought up children. Didn’t their parents teach them manners?”
I know this rule. But I was reminded that it can never be forgotten. I was in the Gare de Lyon train station in Paris. I was late and was rushing. I knew I was in Car 14 but I didn’t see any numbers that would help me find it. I saw a railway worker in his brightly coloured uniform standing by the door of one of the cars. I ran over and in French asked “Where is Car 14?” He glared at me and in a very commanding voice said, “Bonjour monsieur.” Lesson learned – never to be forgotten.
“Bonjour” is the beginning of the interaction. The rules for its ending are also clearly defined. If you are buying a baguette at a nearby boulangerie (bakery), after saying “Bonjour,” you would then say what you would like – “Une baguette, s’il vous plâit.” Once it has been handed to you and you have paid, you would say “Merci.” (Thank you.) But it doesn’t end there. You would then say, “Bonne journée.” (Have a nice day.) Now, the important part… As you are leaving, you add “Au revoir.” As “Bonjour” marks the beginning of the interaction, “Au revoir” marks the end of it. The patient who said “Bonjour” to everyone else sitting in the waiting room would say “Au revoir” to each person on his way out – even if different people were sitting there. If you forgot to say “Au revoir” as you left the boulangerie with your baguette in hand – even though you had said “Merci” and “Bonne journée” – you would likely hear a loud “Au revoir monsieur” (or madame) as you opened the door to leave.
As for timing… say Bonjour up until 5pm – either Bonjour or Bonsoir between 5 and 6, and Bonsoir after 6pm.
Another reason many English-speaking tourists feel the French are rude is they refuse to reply in English. First, they do not refuse to speak English. They would be delighted to reply in English – if they could. In many areas, the French educational system far surpasses the North American version. Mandatory schooling begins at age three. Students leave high-school with a very well-rounded education – with far more attention paid to history, art, and literature – especially as it pertains to French civilization. Grade-school students are even taught about fine dining (although the French simply call it dining). Unfortunately, all this teaching about civilization comes at the expense of learning a second language. The French do not graduate with the ability to speak English. Many of them wish they did.
I say all this to explain why you may not get a reply in English. The most polite way to deal with this deficiency (both theirs and yours) is to ask if they speak English. Of course, this should be done in French.
After the obligatory “Bonjour,” add “Parlez-vous anglais?” If they say they don’t, don’t be surprised – simply use hand gestures to help explain what you would like. Switching to English but in a louder voice (Yes, I have seen this done.) will not suddenly make them understand English.
I put this at the beginning as it is the most important thing you need to know. Below, I am listing tips to help you navigate in Paris. But “Bonjour” is not a tip. It is a hard and fast rule.
GETTING HERE
When you arrive at the airport, you will want to get to Paris itself. There are a variety of ways to do this – but the only one that I recommend is the train, the RER. Don’t take a taxi. It’s a flat fee but still far more expensive than the RER. It will have to battle Paris traffic and could take a long time to get you to the city. For the same reason, don’t take the bus. There is only one efficient way to get into Paris – the RER, the commuter train that runs through the city.
If there are four or more of you and you each have a suitcase or two, take a taxi. It will still cost more than the RER – but not by much. (€56 + tip to the Right Bank-which is where we are. €65 + tip to the Left Bank. Prices as of January 2025.) You won’t have to drag your luggage through stations and you will be dropped off at your destination. It will, however, take longer than the RER. If there are two of you, take the RER. Do not accept a ride from one of the many people standing inside the terminal and asking if you want a taxi. They are trying to scam you. Only take a taxi by standing in line at the curb outside the terminal building. There are signs letting you know where to go to get a taxi.
You can get a Uber or Bolt in Paris. But they are not allowed to use Taxi lanes. In rush hour, you could be stuck in traffic as a taxi rushes past.
Taxis have signs on the roof with green lights indicating they are available. If it doesn’t have an official taxi sign on the roof, don’t take it.
It is most likely that you will go through immigration and pick up your bags in Terminal 2. Be sure to put your bags on one of the luggage carts available near the conveyor belt. You will have a long walk once you’re outside of the secure area and you will be glad you have a cart. You won’t be able to get one outside of the baggage claim area. Once you have left the baggage area, follow signs for “RER, SNCF, GRANDES LIGNES.” Near the end, you will have to take an escalator down one flight. Beginning here, follow the signs for RER and ignore SNCF, GRANDES LIGNES signs.
On this level, one flight down from the main airport concourse and one flight above the RER tracks, you will find vending machines that sell RER tickets. There can be a long line of people waiting to buy tickets. Some of the vending machines are farther away and difficult to see. They usually have shorter lines. Be careful to choose a machine that says RER and not SNCF-Grandes Lignes. The first photo below has a vending machine that says Tickets, Navigo, RER at the top. That’s what you want. The second photo shows a Grande Lignes – SNCF machine. Which you don’t want.
Choosing which ticket to buy can be complicated and will depend on how long you will be staying in Paris. The first decision is whether you want your ticket on a plastic card that you place on the turnstile – or on your phone that you also place on the turnstile. You’ll save a few euros by using your phone.
If you don’t wish to use your phone, you can buy a ticket from the airport to downtown Paris at the ‘Tickets – RER’ machine in the above photo. It will cost €13 (in January 2025). It will allow you to use the Métro and RER for two hours.
If you want tickets on your phone (which save the price of the reloadable plastic card), you’ll need to download an app. There are two that are available. Jeannie and I use “Bonjour RATP.” (If you don’t like it, try “Ile-de-France Mobilités.”) You can download both from the App Store long before you come to Paris and get everything loaded ahead of time.
If you are using your phone or a plastic card, here are your choices:
A single ticket. €13 from CDG airport to downtown.
Navigo Easy pass
Can load it with multiple trips. Works on Métro, RER and bus but you’ll be charged for each trip if you switch from Métro/RER to a bus.
Two people cannot use the same card at the same time – but can at different times.
One trip is €2.50. A one-day pass is €12 + €2 for the card. Airports are not included.
A one-week pass is not available.
Navigo Découverte pass
A one week pass costs €31.60 plus the €5 card. You’ll need to add a photo.
Warning: The pass begins on Monday and ends on Sunday. Not available after Thursday.
The good news is it is valid for trips to and from the airport – a big savings.
The weekly pass is worth 13 Métro trips. But if you add a trip to and from the airport, worth €26, and take more than three Métro trips, you’ve saved money. It’s also valid on the bus.
You may be asked for proof that you bought a ticket – on the train or on the platform. There is a big fine if you can’t produce it. That’s not all you can be fined for.
A man was recently fined €150 for using the speaker on his phone when making a call while sitting in a station. Make sure to always use earbuds in stations and on trains. (The French government has just announced it is making that a criminal offence. Repeat offenders could receive a jail sentence. Putting your feet on the seats could receive the same punishment.)
Once you have it, tap your ticket or phone on the turnstile just before the escalator that leads down to the platform. Hang onto your ticket. Guard it with your life. If you lose it, you will not be able to leave the station when you get to Paris. You will be doomed to spend the rest of your life below ground. In addition, there are inspectors who walk the trains and stations and may ask to see your ticket. This applies in the Métro as well as the RER.
Take the escalator down to the platform. There may be two trains waiting. It doesn’t matter which one you take. CDG is the last stop. Both trains will be going back to Paris. Take the one that has more people on it as it will likely leave first. If it is so crowded that there are no empty seats – and if you’re not in a rush – take the other one. You won’t have to stand and it won’t be too long of a wait before it leaves.
Don’t worry if the doors to the train are closed. One thing about trains in Europe – be they the 300 km/h TGV, the RER, or the Métro – you may have to push a button or lift a handle on the door to get it to open. The first time I took the Métro in Paris, I was left standing on the platform as the train left. All the other doors opened and passengers got off and on. But my door remained firmly shut. Later, I learned all I had to do was lift the handle. The same thing applies when getting off the train: lift the handle or push the button to get it to open. (Some newer trains have doors that open automatically.)
There are two ways of traveling underground in Paris – the Métro and the RER.
The Métro is the city’s subway system. It has 16 lines – designated by coloured numbers – and more than 320 stations. No matter where you are, the closest station is no more than 500-metres away.
The RER is a commuter train. It has five lines – designated by coloured letters. Trains can take you far out of Paris – including Versailles and EuroDisney. The great thing about the RER is the lines pass through (under) Paris. It travels faster and has fewer stops than the Métro. If where you’re starting from is near an RER station and your destination is near an RER station, it is quicker to take the RER than the Métro. The same ticket works on both systems so it’s no more expensive to take the RER. All RER stations are connected to a Métro station – but not the other way round.
Standing on the platform, Métro trains will arrive on your left. RER trains will arrive on your right. (In stations with multiple platforms, this is not always the case.)
One thing that visitors from Toronto may find confusing – the lights inside the train indicating upcoming stations and stations that have been passed function as they do in most of the world. If the light is on, you haven’t yet reached that station. If they’re off, that station is behind you. For a reason known only to the TTC, Toronto does it the opposite way round. Just something Toronto visitors should keep in mind.
If you are coming to see us on Aleau, this is the point at which you have to trust me and ignore what Google Maps and other travel apps tell you to do. Aleau is moored less than 10 minutes on foot from Gare de Lyon. It is a major train station – Grandes Lignes, a Métro station, and an RER station.
The RER from the airport doesn’t go to Gare de Lyon. You will have to change trains. Google and the RATP app will tell you to change at Châtelet. Ignore them. Châtelet is the biggest, busiest, most confusing station in Paris. Avoid it whenever possible. Parisians often get off one station before or after Châtelet just to avoid it.
Get off the RER at Gare du Nord. You now want to take RER Line D. The sign will be green. You want “Direction Malesherbes or Melon.” It doesn’t matter which as the junction for those stations happens well after where you will get off. You do NOT want “Direction Creil.” When you are going back to the airport, “Direction Creil” IS what you want. But not now. It is possible that “Line D – Direction Malesherbes or Melon” is just on the other side of the platform and you won’t have to walk very far.
Go two stops (passing Châtelet) and get off at Gare de Lyon. You will likely need to swipe your ticket in order to get out.
If not already in it, proceed to Hall 1. There will be signs – but if you need help, there are usually SNCF workers (in red) who will point you in the right direction. But make sure you say “Bonjour” before asking for help.
In Hall 1, there is the fanciest restaurant in a train station anywhere in the world, Le Train Bleu. I will meet you in front of it. I will stand next to the yellow mailbox facing Le Train Bleu. Le Train Bleu is on the first floor (second floor to those coming from North America) and has a curving staircase at either end that leads to the front door. The mailbox is at ground level in front of a Brasserie and halfway between the two staircases. If you are standing in front of the yellow mailbox in front of the Brasserie, I will find you.
If you want to have a look inside Le Train Bleu, climb the stairs or visit its website.
https://www.le-train-bleu.com/en/
If you want to look inside – and laugh – look at the first six minutes of this clip of Mr. Bean in Le Train Bleu.(The YouTube video may not work in all countries.)
Chuckling or not, I’ll meet you at the mailbox.
The “Bonjour RATP” app does much more than simply allow you to buy tickets. It is an excellent way to find the best way to get from A to B in Paris. Not only does it tell you which Métro line to take, it tells you whether to get on at the front or rear of the train so you’ll be close to the exit you’ll want to take. And it tells you the number of the exit in the station that is closest to your destination.
Below is a screen shot (broken in two) of Bonjour RATP. The imaginary trip used as an example is to Champs de Mars from Port de l’Arsenal (our home in Paris). Traveling from the Quai de la Rapée station (the one closest to Aleau), follow the signs for ‘Direction Place d’Italie.’ Sit in the front of the train and get off at Gare d’Austerlitz and transfer to the Number 10 train ‘Direction Boulogne Pont de Saint-Cloud.’ Sit in the rear of the train for 11 stops and get off at La Motte-Picquet-Grenell. In the station, look for signs for Exit 5 – the one closest to Champs de Mars. The app works great.
One caveat about the Métro and RER. Be wary of pickpockets. I’ve never experienced a problem but I have heard it happens. Hang on tight to valuables. Don’t leave anything in an easy-to-reach outside pocket.
Watch out for “Do Not Enter” signs – the red circle with a white line. They can be hard to see.
While I advised you to avoid Châtelet at all costs, there are a number of other stations that will try your patience as you try to navigate the multitude of underground passageways. There are blue signs that point you in the direction of the exits. Sort of.
Even after being here all this time, I can still get lost when in an unfamiliar station. I wanted “Exit 13, rue de Van Gogh.” The sign above said, Turn Left. I did. But on the signs that followed, Exit 13 had disappeared.
Finally, after walking kilometres through the station – back and forth – searching and searching – it finally appeared.
Actually, not quite true. I had to ask an RATP agent. If lost, don’t be afraid to ask. (Just say Bonjour first.) Another option – simply take any exit to get you up to street level and then use Google Maps to lead to where you want to go.
If you excuse the alliteration (and the occasional difficulty finding the right exit), the Métro is magnificent. You are never more than 500-metres from a station – no matter where you are in Paris. The map below shows how extensive the system is.
All directions (small D) for the Métro start with the Line Number. In the screen shot above of the Bonjour RATP app, it’s Lines 5 and 10. Next comes Direction (Capital D). That is the name of the last station in the direction the train is headed. All Métro signs, instructions on the app and from friends like me, will tell you which line to take and in which direction.
In the Métro station, signs on the wall will point the way. Below, follow the arrow for the Line 8 train for both Directions. Later on, signs will tell you which stairway to take for “Direction Balard” or “Direction Crétil.”
Here, the arrow tells you which way to go if you want the Line 8 train “Direction Balard.” The icons on the left tell you what other lines connect at the various stations along Line 8. The Opéra station connects with one RER line (A) and two Métro lines (3 and 7).
One more thing…. Keep to the right on stairs and escalators. Never stand two-abreast. The left side is for people in a hurry rushing up the escalator. This applies to sidewalks as well although people who don’t drive seem to be less knowledgeable about the ‘keep to the right’ rule.
There is one oddity you may encounter when riding the Métro in Paris. After swiping your card or phone at a turnstile, you may, just a short distance away, encounter another turnstile that requires you to swipe your ticket or phone again. No, I can’t explain why. Just do it. You will not be charged a second fee.
The Métro will get you there quickly – but the bus will give you a better view. I have read that these bus routes afford a nice view of the city – 59, 63, 69, 67, 42. The other bonus is that you avoid all the stairs that dot Paris Métro stations. You will, however, have to pay twice. You cannot transfer between the Métro and a bus and vice versa.
NAVIGATING TRAFFIC
You have taken the RER from the airport to Gare de Lyon. You are now in Paris!
It is a beautiful city to walk in. But walking has its challenges. You need to be aware of cars – and especially bikes. Traffic lights are different from most other parts of the world. Yes, they are red, yellow and green. But they are placed on the near side of the intersection – not on the far side as in North America. Since you won’t be driving, this is not a big deal, but it is something you should be aware of.
What’s good about how the French place their traffic lights is that it is impossible for cars to encroach on the pedestrian crosswalk. If they did, they would not be able to see the traffic light. There are ‘repeater’ traffic lights placed low on poles at intersections. It is still impossible for a driver to see them if their car moves into the crosswalk.
While much of North America has switched to pedestrian lights with clocks that countdown the time left before the light changes, I have decided they are a bad idea. They encourage people to say, “I have three seconds left, I can make it.” Sometimes, they can’t. In France, the pedestrian lights are either green or red. Once they are red, you do not have time to cross the street. As soon as it turns red, stop and wait. The other thing that is different is there may be two pedestrian lights – one for the first half of the street and a second for the second half. You may have to wait in the middle of the street – but there is always a safe place to do so. Don’t assume that because you have green as you start to cross the street, it is safe to cross the entire street. It may not be. When the red man in the photo below turns green, the green on the other side will turn red. You’ll have to stand between the two poles and wait.
Sometimes, there’s sign warning you that you can’t cross the entire street at one time.
More often than not, there is no warning sign. Just watch the man to see if it’s safe to cross.
In addition to lanes for cars, there are often bike lanes. Cyclists must obey stop signs, traffic lights, and pedestrian crosswalks. Unfortunately, no one has told them this. Make sure to always check for cyclists even if you have the right-of-way.
Many traffic laws are different in France. One that might be disconcerting is the placement of traffic lights immediately after an intersection. You may be crossing on the green at an intersection only to see a car start at the other side of the intersection and speed towards you. It can be frightening but the car will come to a stop just before your crosswalk. We hope. Also, unless there is a Yield or Stop sign, cars on the right have the right of way. Even if they are on a smaller street. This is different from North America where the car on the larger street has the right of way. It can look like madness to people not familiar with it. Check out this video from atop the Arc de Triomphe. The cars already in the traffic circle must give way to cars entering it from the right. It looks scary – but as long as you know the rule, it works.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2RCPpdmSVg
A traffic light you won’t see in North America is this one.
If you see it, you should keep an eye out for cars turning from the right. The “Saint George’s Cross” means cars coming from the opposite direction have a red light and it’s safe for cars facing the red cross to turn left. It’s similar to the “advanced green” light at intersections in North America.
If you plan to rent a car while in Paris (or anywhere in France), I’ve added some tips at the end of this chapter – after the section on videos that suggest what to and not to wear in Paris.
If walking on foot (which is the best way to get around Paris because the architecture is so lovely), use Google Maps. Make sure it’s on Satellite, and Walking, then click on Live View. It’ll point out each turn. Be sure to have the camera on your phone pointing forward.
When using Live View, you’ll need to have three eyes. One looking at the screen, one looking ahead to make sure you don’t walk into something (or someone) and one looking down at the sidewalk. While most dog owners are pretty good at picking up after their dog, it only takes one to ruin your day. And maybe your shoes. I wish I could say Paris sidewalks are all spotless. They’re not. Keep one eye down.
When checking to see what street you’re on, you won’t find street signs on poles at intersections. They are always located on the sides of buildings. Sometimes way high up.
Building numbers can be high up, too. Often they don’t even exist. While the numbers follow the usual convention of odd on one side of the street and even on the other, that’s the only rule that Paris follows. It’s not uncommon to see 49 on one side of the street and 82 directly opposite on the other side of the street. Occasionally, two buildings will have the same number – one will be number 54 – and the other will be 54-bis.
Something to keep in mind… We recently had friends from Canada come for a visit. They learned a painful lesson. Get in shape by taking long walks well before arriving. Their first day here, they had to slow to a snail’s pace by the end of the day as their feet and legs ached so much. It’s not unusual to walk 10 kilometres in a day exploring Paris. That hurts if you’re not used to it. Get in some long walks before coming. The other painful lesson they learned – don’t break in your new shoes once you’re here.
STORES
Yup, again it’s a bit different here than in North America. The biggest difference is – in France the customer is not king. The store is not a public place. In France, when you enter a store (other than a department store or supermarket), you are entering someone’s private space – almost like entering their home. You must acknowledge this relationship by greeting the salespeople – and maybe other customers. (This is why Bonjour is so important.) Even if you do not see something you like and turn to leave almost instantly, you must still say Merci, Bonjour, and finally Au Revoir.
Smaller stores may close for lunch. Lunch is from noon to 2pm. Do not arrive shortly before noon and expect to be welcomed. The door is locked at noon. And you must be gone. For staff, having lunch is more important than making a sale. Lunch is sacrosanct in France!
While larger stores don’t close for lunch, they do close at the end of the day. And the posted store-closing time is really the closing time. In North America, if the sign says the store closes at 10pm, you can usually rush in at 9:55, grab what you need, and then proceed to the cash. Not in France. If the sign says the supermarket or department store closes at 10pm, that is when the lights will be turned off and the doors locked. Closing time really is closing time.
RESTAURANTS
The first thing to know about restaurants in Paris – you must make reservations. It doesn’t matter if it’s for lunch in the middle of the week. Make reservations. You may get in without them – or you may not. I’ve watched tourists come through the door just after 7pm and ask for a table only to be told there are none. They stand there dumbfounded thinking how rude they are being treated as they see a dozen free tables. What they don’t realize is all those tables have been booked. Maybe not for 7, or 8, or maybe not until 9pm. Most restaurants will not seat you at a table that is already booked – even if it appears available. Try to book ahead.
Restaurant hours are the opposite of store hours. For lunch, they open from noon to 2pm. They do not open again until 7pm at the earliest. If you find one that is open outside of these hours, you likely don’t want to eat there. They focus on tourists and the food is usually microwaved. Of course, there are exceptions – but if you don’t know which ones are the exceptions, stay away from any restaurant that says you can eat at any time.
As with stores, don’t arrive shortly before closing time and expect to be seated. I would say that 1pm is the latest you should arrive. In addition, it is highly recommend that you make reservations – even for lunch. If you don’t, you may find yourself turned away.
One of the wonderful things about dining out in France is the table is yours for as long as you wish. They do not turn over tables. No one will rush you. No one will bring the bill to your table. When you wish to leave, get up and walk to the counter where the credit-card machine is located. In fact, if you choose to leave too soon after eating, the staff may think you didn’t enjoy your meal. Dining in France is about much more than just eating. It is a time to socialize, to enjoy each other’s company. Plan on at least two hours for any meal.
Another wonderful thing – being able to sit outside for a drink or a meal and take in Paris.
Unfortunately, you’ll be taking in something else as well – smoke. While it is illegal to smoke inside a restaurant or café, it is perfectly fine to smoke at an outdoor table. On a gorgeous day when we’d love to be outside, we have found just about every table to be taken by someone smoking or vaping. We invariably end up eating inside. It is a real disappointment.
When you arrive at a restaurant, either for lunch or dinner, you will have a few options – and some of the terminology will look the same but be different from what you may be used to.
The “Menu” is not the menu you get in North America. The “Menu” is the special of the day – and is often what you should choose. What North Americans call a Menu is called “La Carte” in France. It offers more choice than the Menu of the day and is more expensive. The “Menu” is often displayed on a chalkboard outside. It can also be called “La Formule.” Below, you can have an Entrée and a Plat – or a Plat and a Dessert for €17.50. In the heart of Paris. You can order a single item from the Formule or if you wish, add a dessert to the Entrée and Plat. The total for Entrée, Plat, and Dessert here would be €25. Including tax and tip.
The Formule at a nearby take-out spot.
Judging by the line, it must be a good place to grab lunch to take to a park on a sunny if somewhat chilly day.
Below is “La Carte” – what would be called the Menu in North America. It offers more choices and costs more than eating from the Menu. (Excuse the reflection. I couldn’t get a better shot.)
When looking at the prices for the “Menu” and on “La Carte,” keep in mind that these prices are all inclusive. The tax and tip are included. What you see is what you pay. Leaving a few coins (2 or 3 euros) on the table is appreciated but is not expected. No one will chase after you if you pay what’s on the bill and leave. Wait staff are paid well and are not dependent on tips. Nor do they expect them.
Most of the hand-held credit-card machines don’t even have a tip option. The few that do are in restaurants that cater to tourists and are trying to capitalize on tourists not being familiar with tipping in France. If presented with one of these machines, simply click on No Tip. No one will be insulted.
In addition to Menu meaning something different in France than it does in North America so does the word Entrée. In France, it means exactly what it says – it is the entrance to the meal. As opposed to North America where someone has decided it means the main course.
Your three courses in France will be – Entrée, Plat, and Dessert. I agree, “Plat” is the least appetizing word to describe the most important part of the meal.
The water in Paris is perfectly safe to drink. Unless you prefer sparkling water, there is no need to buy bottled water. Simply ask for “Une carafe d’eau s’il vous plait.” You will cheerfully be given a carafe of the finest tap water Paris has to offer. It’s perfectly safe.
Wait staff and customers don’t engage in small-talk. There is no “Hi, I’m Bob, I’m you waiter” or “How is everybody tonight?” Servers are there to serve – not to be your friend. Of course, the usual rules of politeness apply.
Don’t even think of asking for a coffee at the beginning of your meal. You will be met with a look of horror. Coffee is served at the very end of the meal. Period.
Don’t ask for cream for your coffee. You won’t get it. If you want cream in your coffee, ask for Café Crème. It will be an espresso with a bit of milk. Want more milk? Café au Lait is 50% coffee and 50% scalded milk. If you want even more milk, Café Latte is your best choice.
Parisians don’t drink these so expect to pay “tourist” prices for these drinks. You can ask but It would be extremely rare for a restaurant to give you a pitcher of milk or cream. Asking for “Half and Half” would result in a blank stare.
Don’t ask for butter for your bread. Like cream above, you won’t get it.
Don’t ask for ice in your water. You won’t get it.
Don’t ask for a “doggy bag.”
Don’t ask to substitute anything on the Menu or Carte. The food is as described and unless you have an allergy (and you must say so) it can’t be changed. Chefs are proud of their creations and believe (rightly or wrongly) that they know more than you about what goes with what.
You can ask for your meat to be well-done – Bien Cuit. But you won’t get it that way. Instead, you may get a lecture and asked why you want to ruin a good piece of meat. “À Point” means Medium. It will be a bit more pink than Medium in North America.
If you want alcohol with your meal, choose wine. You’re in France. Hard liquor, cocktails, etc. are not usually drunk at restaurants in France.
You likely won’t get a plate for your bread. It can sit it on the table and you can use your hands to tear off pieces. But that is the only time you can use your hands. The French eat absolutely everything else with cutlery. Pizza? Only with a knife and fork. Hamburger? Only with a knife and fork.
Filet Mignon in France usually means pork – not beef.
Salade often means lettuce with a vinaigrette and nothing else.
There is no eating on the run in France. No self-respecting French person would walk down the street eating a sandwich. Sitting on a bench or lying on the grass? Fine. Eating while standing or walking? Never. Ditto for a take-out cup of coffee. You must be seated.
Speaking of being seated… Be careful of bars that look like this.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with them if you want a coffee, beer, or glass of wine. But if it has a sign that says “Tabac” or “PMU” (Off-track betting”), keep your eye out for a sign like this.
The classic Parisian bar may have three prices listed for a cup of coffee (and other drinks). The least expensive is if you drink standing up at the counter. As the woman in the rear is doing.
The second price is if you’d like to sit at a table in the bar. The third price is if you’d like to sit at a sidewalk table. In the photo above of prices, this place is a bargain. “Salle” and “Terrasse” (Inside and outside tables) are the same price. The first column is the size of the drink in millilitres. Don’t even think of paying for a cup of coffee at the bar and then going and sitting down. Paris bars are not Starbucks.
You may find pastry and sandwich shops with two prices – one for “to go” and one for taking what you’ve bought and sitting at a table. Again, if you haven’t paid for a table, you can’t go and sit at one. Pay close attention to signs. “À emporter” means “to go” and “sur place” means to eat at a table – inside or outside.
Handy to know… You can drink alcohol in public – in a park, sitting along the Seine, etc. It’s legal. What is illegal is to be drunk in public. To me, it’s a refreshing way to look at drinking alcohol.
A little later, that cup of coffee (or glass of wine in the park), may have you looking for a “toilette.” Don’t think of using the far-too-polite English term “Bathroom” (Salle de Bain). They do not put bathtubs in restaurants in France. If you need a toilet, that’s what you ask for – “La toilette?” You will be pointed in the right direction. There may be one room with a sink and then a cubicle with a toilet. The cubicle is for both men and women.
On the street, Paris has public toilets.
They are free and spotless. But without a plastic toilet seat. It can be cold at first.
After each use, they are automatically cleaned and disinfected. In addition, workers come by to verify cleanliness..
Soap and water are available. If you have a water bottle, it’s safe to use the water to fill it.
In fact, there are more than 1,200 free water-fountains in Paris. You can find the closest at
https://fontaine.eaudeparis.fr
Below is a map of public water fountains in Paris.
They come in many different styles. (The two photos below have been borrowed from the internet.)
Some fountains allow you to choose cold water or sparking water. Both are free.
If the toilet you want is in use, there’s a map and QR code showing others that are nearby.
If you’re looking for something a bit classier, try this one. It’s underground near La Madeleine.
You can scan the QR code at the toilet to find others that are nearby. The numbers on the yellow map are the Arrondissements. They are how neighbourhoods in Paris are defined. When asking someone where they live, they’d likely begin by saying “In the seventh.”
We are in the 12th – but bordering on the 11th and the 4th. A great location. Postal codes tell you the arrondissement for an address. Our postal code is 75012. 75 means Paris. 12 means the 12th arrondissement. We are at the red dot on the yellow map.
The other handy bit of geographical information – although not part of an address – is on which side of the Seine – Left Bank or Right Bank an address is located. The Left Bank is La Rive Gauche and the Right Bank is La Rive Droite. We are on the Right Bank – La Rive Droite.
Contrary to what some tourists think, the Left Bank is not called that because it is more Bohemian or intellectual (La Sorbonne is there). Left and Right have to do with which way the river is flowing. Not just in Paris but throughout Europe. When going downstream, the Right Bank is on the right – and the Left Bank is on the left.
If you are staying at a hotel instead of onboard Aleau (Why would you do that?), keep in mind that floors are numbered differently. What we would call the First Floor would be labeled “0” or “RC” on the elevator button here. If your room is on the fifth floor, it’s really on the North American sixth floor. Make sure your hotel has an elevator!
I hope this gives you some idea of what to expect when you visit us in Paris. Jeannie and I look forward to seeing you. Be aware, after being in Paris for a few days, you may not want to leave. Please contact us if you have any questions.
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After having written all this, I came across some YouTube videos that I think you might enjoy – and maybe they better explain what I’ve been trying to say. Let me know. Start with first one. It’s all about ‘Bonjour.’ But skip the part on dinner parties. You’ll be dining with us. You can do whatever you want – even hold a hamburger in your hands.
You may be able to click on some of the links to get them to work. With others, you may have to copy and paste.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=2u5eGoY6AJM&t=239s
www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HEjB5jvdYM
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp2DVYJ63u4
The videos below are aimed at women but the ideas apply to men, too. You will likely feel more comfortable if you blend in and aren’t shouting “I’m a tourist” because of what you’re wearing. No backpacks. No shorts, no t-shirts, no “active wear” (yoga pants, sweatshirts), nothing with logos that make it look like you’re advertising a product or a university.
Above all, for men and women – and no matter how much you love it and how much you paid for it, do not – ever – wear a baseball cap. It is considered about as low-class as you can get in Paris. You will become the proverbial “Ugly American.” Dressing properly is for your own wellbeing. Looking like a tourist could make you a target for pickpockets or scammers.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0nM3x-6dCs
www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYurRMjCVzs
The one below wouldn’t load for me when I used the link. You can find it by searching on YouTube for “How NOT to Look Like A Tourist While Traveling To Europe This Summer” by Busbee Style.
In cooler weather, a scarf (for men and women) will make you look like a true Parisian.
RENTING A CAR
If you’re thinking of renting a car while in Paris, DON’T! I have driven in major cities in both North America and Europe. From New York City to Los Angeles and just about every city in-between. From Amsterdam to Rome and just about every city in-between. None come close to driving in Paris.
While congestion is becoming worse and worse as more and more streets – and recently, entire neighbourhoods – are closed to cars, when you can actually move, you will find the traffic laws alien. Not knowing them can be dangerous.
I was unable to exchange my Canadian driver’s license for a French one. (A long story.) After weeks and weeks of non-stop studying, I was finally able to pass the written test. Barely. Getting a PhD would have been easier. (If you’re curious about the written test, go to YouTube and search for “Code de la Route.” There are lots of sample tests. Good luck.)
Having passed the written test, I now have to enrol in a Driver’s Ed school and do the on-road test. Last week, I went with an instructor on the route I would take with a government examiner. I flunked. Probably many times over. In Canada, I spent many years as Senior Instructor for a motorcycle course. Here, that’s not helping.
If you are going to rent, do so outside of Paris. The traffic may be lighter – but the laws remain the same. They are different from North America – and you absolutely must know them.
The first difference is “Priorité à Droite.” That means the car on the right has the right-of-way. On major roads outside of cities, there may be signs saying that rule does not apply. But in towns and cities – even Paris – you must give way to the car on the right. My instructor “flunked” me many times as I didn’t slow to a crawl at just about every intersection where there was a street on the right. It didn’t matter that I was on a relatively large street and it was just a tiny laneway on my right. I had to be prepared for a car to come roaring out at full speed in front of me. That meant slowing almost to a stop before each street on my right – no matter how small it was. Apparently, I wasn’t slowing enough. Flunked.
I also got in trouble when I turned left at an intersection. When the light turned green, I turned left. Until she yelled at me to stop. I learned the hard way, just as you clear the intersection, well, even before you clear the intersection, there may be another traffic light. A red one. This is to protect pedestrians in the crosswalk. So, just as you think you are on your way around the corner, you have to jam on the brakes. Another flunk.
It gets more complicated. Many crosswalks do not have a traffic light for cars. They do have a pedestrian light. While it faces 90-degrees from your point of view, you have to keep an eye out for it. If it’s red, just keep going. If it’s green, be prepared for a pedestrian to step out in front of you. I saw pedestrians at the curb and slowed. The hard to see pedestrian light was red and I should not have slowed. Another flunk.
I was also criticized for not paying more attention to motorcycles. They are allowed to ride between lanes and can roar past on either side just centimetres from the edge of your car. It’s nerve racking.
My final tip about renting a car – don’t speed. In Canada, you are allowed to go 19 km/h over the speed limit. In cities with a 50 km/h limit, you won’t get stopped until you’re going at least 70 km/h. 120 km/h if the limit is 100. In France, where photo radar is everywhere, 3 km/h over the limit can get you a ticket. It will be mailed to the rental car company and they will put the charge, plus their fee, on your credit card.
My final bit of advice if you choose to rent – skip the Autoroutes. Yes, with a speed limit of 130 km/h, they will get you where you want to go quickly. But why would you want to? You see absolutely nothing on an autoroute. And you pay a high price not to see anything. They are very expensive.
If at all possible, always take D roads. They will take you through charming French towns and past beautiful scenery. Yes, it will take longer. But it will be worth it. You’re in France. Don’t rush. Enjoy it.
Here’s what the sign for a D road looks like.
