While TripAdvisor lists 82 restaurants in Nevers, our Michelin Guide lists only one in the city – Jean-Michel Couron.
We phoned and tried to book a table for dinner. “Complet.” Full. “What about tomorrow night?” “Complet.” We decided to stop. No sense going through the entire calendar and getting the same answer. Then, an offer we couldn’t refuse. They did have a table for lunch the following day. Would we like it? Silly question.
No surprise it was impossible to book a table for dinner – there aren’t many of them. Jean-Michel Couron has two seating areas – one in the front and one in the rear. Each has four tables. Almost all are for two. One in the rear seats three. One in the front seats four.
The menu appeared large…
…but like all good restaurants in France, there was little choice. We could have the “Menu” for €39 or the “Menu” for €59.50. The €39 Menu looked incredible. Why spend more? The €39 had five courses. Could we really eat the six courses that came with the more expensive Menu?
Not even on the Menu was the Amuse Bouche. (Does that count as an extra course?) It was cucumber, sesame seeds, and pine nuts in whipped cream.
We each had a different entrée. Jeannie had “Les pétales de saumon fumé maison et melon, lait de coco au curry Bengali.”
I had “Le gaspacho de tomates, fromage blanc de compagne aux câpres et citron au sel, pignons de pain et pistou.”
For the “Plat,” Jeannie had “Le Thon à l’unilatérale, aubergines grillées, touches de pulpe de poivrons piquillos et wasabi.”
I had “Le filet de cochon Label Rouge d’Auvergne laqué d’une sauce teriyaki, feuilles de chou au parmesan, chorizo séché et jus réduit.”
And then there was dessert. Wait, not quite. First was the mandatory cheese course. And then dessert
Jeannie had “Un confit de cerises et mousse au miel de sapin et vieux rhum, tuile craquante.”
I had “La couronne d’abricots, crème légère à la verveine, pralines concassées et praliné.”
Not done yet. After dessert, we were served “Des Mignardises,” another dessert to finish the meal. Today, it was a small glass of raspberry sorbet.
It would be impossible to choose the best restaurant we have eaten at in France – or the best meal we have had. Jean-Michel Couron ranks right up there.
Tonight (Not the same day as the delicious meal above), we’re going to be much more casual. We stumbled across this pizzeria as we strolled through Nevers. All the staff (and a few customers) were speaking Italian. What better recommendation could there be?
Post Script. We did go to the pizzeria above for dinner. We ate outdoors at a table in the shade to the left of the building. Jeannie had a salad.
I had a superbly made pizza.
For dessert, café gourmand – a mightily strong coffee with four mini-pastries and ice cream.
For lunch the next day, we found a crèperie, Le Goemon. We arrived at one minute after noon to find the place was packed – indoors and outside. We didn’t have reservations and weren’t feeling optimistic. Serendipity – there was one table left. I didn’t think to take a photo while we were there. Too busy eating. I went back later in the afternoon to grab a shot. I couldn’t believe it was where we had just had a lovely meal. The awning was rolled up. Shades covered the windows. The tables sat without mats, cutlery, and glasses. That wonderful ambiance was gone. I couldn’t believe the change that could happen in an hour. But I knew Le Goemon would blossom again at 7pm.
While I forgot to take a shot of where we were eating while we were eating, I didn’t forget to take a shot of what we ate. Crèpes, of course. And cider to drink alongside them.
I loved how Jeannie’s crèpe was presented – with all the fillings on display. Mine looked boring in comparison. But inside, it was delicious. At least you get to see the cider.
I had to go back. Partly because we’ll be leaving Nevers in the morning and I wanted one more crèpe before we left – and partly to grab a shot that shows Le Goemon as it should be seen – with people enjoying their time there.
We phoned ahead and got the last table. The ‘Reserved’ sign was for us.
Jeannie’s crèpe looked so good when we were there last time, I had to try it. It was so good she stuck with it for our second visit. And we both, again, had the cider.
Another day, another meal. I should say, “Another wonderful day, another wonderful meal.” I have to keep pinching myself.